Autumn in Paris
Paris in October was frigid when we last visited it in autumn. Temperatures had steadily been dropping from early to late October as Max and I drove from the western to the central parts of France during a two month journey by car.I recall in those first few days as we pounded the Parisian pavements, four layers of clothing for us Aussies weren’t cutting it. The dry coldness was so sharply biting that my nose, ears and face were threatening to break like shards of glass and fall off, or so it felt, as we gazed out at the radiating boulevards from the top of the Arc de Triomphe to survey elegant Paris stretched out before us.
Visually, Paris in autumn is a gorgeous time to visit when the light gives the city a soft palette complemented by the tones of autumn foliage.
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| Romantic Parisian bridge in the autumn sunshine |
Visiting newly found friends, it was a pleasant stroll from the metro through neighbourhood parklands in the 15th arrondisement to Edith’s and Paul’s lovely and light-filled apartment where we were invited for dinner. Pizza, French champagne and wonderfully stimulating conversation turned out to be a great partnership before catching the bus back to our hotel in the centre of town. Pizza and politics do seem to go hand in hand, don’t you think? Max and I feel so blessed to have met and engaged with these two charming, intelligent and witty Parisians during our travels. Edith and Paul certainly enriched our cultural tour of France back then, and Paul's passing since this visit has made this memory even more poignant and special.
I’d already fulfilled my chocolate fantasy by visiting Paris' October chocolate expo. The remainder of our time in Paris was spent revisiting some of our favourite landmarks and destinations and discovering new ones.
FAVOURITE LANDMARKS
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| Sexy combination - Ferrari & Eiffel Tower! |
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| Outside my most favouritest museum, the Louvre |
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| The stylish Art Nouveau Galeries Lafayette, my favourite department store |
PERE LACHAISE CEMETERY
Pere Lachaise cemetery in Paris' 20th arrondisement is a fascinating look into the who’s who of deceased celebrity. This turned out to be a half-day excursion for us as it is so vast an area to cover. There are beautiful gardens within where we noticed locals had come to sit, read, reflect or picnic.
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| Avenue in Pere Lachaise cemetery |
A few of the many memorable tombs and plots visited were those of Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison (of The Doors fame), Oscar Wilde and the historical crypt of medieval lovers Heloise and Abelard. Isadora Duncan and Maria Callas we found in the massive double-storey crematorium which is quite an imposing structure to visit in its own right.
The cemetery produces a detailed plan of notable grave sites so you can pick and choose to pay homage according to your interests whether they be philosophers, actors, scientists, musicians, writers, artists, poets, playwrights, intellectuals or aristocrats.
LA DEFENSE
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| La Grande Arche |
La Defense is the business district of Paris and La Grande Arche is its brash statement in bold architecture. Here we marvelled at the futuristic landscape of skyscrapers and explored the area on foot as it lit up at night.
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| Sculptural art on water in La Defense |
ST OUEN FLEA MARKETS
Weekend flea markets in Paris are great to visit for sheer curiosity value rather than to buy. Catching the metro to Porte de Clingnancourt took us to a huge array of markets around the St Ouen area.
The sidewalk flea market of Marche aux Puces de Saint Ouen (St Ouen flea market) where locals bargain over household odds & ends was a kaleidoscope of cultures. Mostly male sellers, buyers and browsers were crowded around second-hand goods that were sprawled over scatter rugs on footpaths. Across the way and not far from here, African traders operated from stalls of handbags, clothing, costume jewellery and footwear at another market location.
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| Flea market - anyone care to buy one left-footed black boot? |
Further along are numerous other markets including its most well-known one on Rue de Rosiers which has vintage and antique pieces for sale. Much as I'd have liked to have spent some moola, I prepared myself not to get emotionally hooked into buying. There is the issue of luggage space and weight, I argued to myself.
Very pricey on the hip pocket, there were tons of gorgeous items I saw. They definitely would have needed logistics and careful planning to get them home, let alone carry on public transport back to our hotel, had I fallen in love with that must-have piece. Thankfully, head reasoned over heart by the time we left.
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| Love the red French beret in St Ouen! |
Luckily for us, cloudy skies cleared for the remainder of our Parisian stay and the sun came out at just the right time of day to warm our faces and thaw our hands as we picnicked outdoors on baguettes around Paris' landmarks for lunch. Although chilly, much of the weather was calm and dry.
We’d reached the end of our grand tour of France after having bonjour-ed, merci-ed and au revoir-ed our way around the country for nearly two months. However, as then, France still leaves me with a yearning for more - to explore and discover more, taste more, learn more and experience more. Forget Paris in spring rain or crowded humid summer. Of all the seasons I've seen Paris in, autumn is definitely the best time to be here.
Hi, I'm Eva - world traveller, cultural explorer and experience seeker. Together with my husband Max, we've been globetrotting for over 20 years.
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